USING TEXTURED GELS
TRANSFERRING DESIGN TO RICE PAPER
- The rice paper is transparent, so simply place the design underneath the rice paper. Center the design under the rice paper…there may be excess paper on all sides. This extra paper will be torn off when you get to class, so just leave as is.
- Be sure the smooth side is UP, and trace onto the smooth side.
- Use MICRON PIGMA .05 BLACK, or similar size. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER PEN WITHOUT PRIOR APPROVAL FROM ME! SHARPIES WILL NOT WORK! They must be not only permanent, but waterproof!
- The size of the line is purely personal taste, and you may use a different size pen if you wish. However, you do have some control over the line size with any pen – if you trace slowly and use pressure, the line will be thicker than if you move quickly with a light touch.
TRANSFERRING DESIGN TO WATERCOLOR PAPER
The easiest way to transfer a design is to use a light box. If you do not have a light box, simply tape the design to a window, then tape the watercolor paper on top of it. Be sure it is daytime and the lights are off inside the house. Then just trace….use a pencil and trace dark enough to see the design comfortably. Never trace hard enough to cause a groove in the paper!
If you wish, you may also use Saral to trace the design; but some graphite papers can be “oily” and messy.
WATERCOLOR SUPPLY LIST:
- 2 water containers
- paper towels
- masking tape
- kneaded eraser could be helpful
- hair dryer is also helpful
- support for the paper – at least one inch larger all the way around than the project. This can be foam core, gatorboard, masonite – cardboard if nothing else is available.
- Brushes: Do not use any brushes that have previously been used with oil paint. I use a 1- inch flat brush (or larger), an 8 round brush, a 4 round brush and a good, long liner brush. Bring any watercolor/acrylic (not bristle) brushes that you may have.
FRAMING A BATIK
If the batik arrives crinkled or bent, simply iron the piece between two sheets of newspaper.
A batik should always be backed with a white, or light colored acid-free matte or other acid free backing. (I sometimes use the back of a regular sheet of matte board, which is always acid free).
To ‘float’ the batik to the backing use acid free double-stick tape – or framer’s linen tape looped around on itself to be sticky on all sides. Stick the tape in the upper two corners of the batik.
If you are not floating the piece, simply use linen tape and adhere normally.
If the piece is large or unruly, it’s ok to use more than the two pieces of tape at the top.
Note: if you should ever wish to remove the tape, use a hair dryer to slightly warm the tape and it should pull right off!